Hoof Rot (aka Foot Rot)This is a featured page

HOOF ROT (aka Foot Rot)
How to Treat it and Make it Disappear Permanently!
By Sue Reith.


>>I was wondering if you could help me with my pet goat. He is suffering from what I believe could be arthritis.I need help ASAP as he is having great difficulty getting around. He is 11 yrs. old. He has had this for quite a while, but just now is really in visible pain.<<

It sounds as though foot rot (hoof rot) might the culprit in what you are describing here. It shows up in the cold winter months, particularly if the goat's pen is pretty wet/muddy (as is more often than not the case in the winter!). The actual soles of the feet would not be tender to the touch, as it affects the hoof walls. When you lift up the foot to trim it, with the sole facing up towards the sky, do you see any separation between the sole of the hoof and the hoof wall? Does it seem to have blackish 'gunk' stuck in it? This can happen on front and/or back feet, and what's happening is that the footrot bacteria get in there while the hoof walls are soft and wet, as they tend to soften and separate a tiny bit at that point... Then it gets packed in there by manure and mud, and the next thing you know you have a bacterial infection (fusobacterium necrophorum) that causes damage to the tissue and ever increasing separation of the walls from the feet and is extremely painful.

REPAIR: start by trimming the feet carefully, so that you can clearly see the 'white line'(where the hoof wall adheres to the sole itself) all around each toe on the sole of the foot.That white line should be completely visible after trimming the foot... Any disruption in that line could indicate a pocket of foot rot... After examining the freshly trimmed sole of the foot, in the event that you determine the problem is actually foot rot the first thing to do is to order a bacterin called Fusogard Foot Rot Vaccine from a catalog such as Jeffers www.jefferlivestock.com. If you don't already have a syringe and needle, while placing your order with Jeffers you might also add at least one 3cc syringe, #S7-S1-36, and at least one 20 gauge, 1/2 inch needle, # LM-AF-36 as well. You'll also need a bottle of 100ml of 200mg/ml Oxytetracycline, a good, broad spectrum, injectable systemic antibiotic called Biomycin, #A9-04-36 (In this case, however, you'll be using it topically instead of injecting it systemically.) Then you'll need some Betadine, available from a pharmacy like RiteAid, or maybe a feed store, or Jeffers, #P7-B1-36.

With these in hand you'll be ready to get your goat's feet back into good shape. If you don't have a goat stanchion in which to control him while doing all this, I'd suggest that you have somebody else handy to help out with the job. First secure him by his collar (Please tell me he has a good collar on him? <hopeful expression>) and tie him to a sturdy fence (like a horse corral fence?). Then have your helper secure his back end (to start with) by pushing it firmly into and against that same corral fence.

Now you can begin the treatment.
First, pare away the overgrown bottom surface of the hoof with a good pruning clipper or something similar. Once cleared away, take something (a sharp, thin nail, or whatever else you have that is strong and fine-pointed) and dig away the 'gunk' that's in the little'icky' patch you've found between the hoof wall and the foot itself. Sometimes you'll find patches of hoof rot on the sole of the foot as well, that are all 'chewed up' looking, like little 'Swiss cheese' holes) in an area that's normally smooth and clear.

1) The first step is to carefully cut away all the 'damaged' foot/hoof tissue wherever you see it, using the sharp pruning shear, being careful, of course, not to cut off so much that the hoof bleeds.

2) Next, dig out all the 'gunky' stuff in the obviously affected tissue on the foot surface.

3) Then dribble fresh 3% hydrogen peroxide from a syringe/needle into the opened, freshly cleaned, affected tissue, so as to flush it out a bit.

4) After that, dribble some Betadine out of another syringe/needle, topically into the same places you dribbled the peroxide.

5) And finally, dribble topically some of the full-strength injectable Biomycin from the 3cc syringe/needle right into that same open, just cleaned wound caused by the bacteria.
The 'cleaning the gunk out' and the 'dribbling oxytet into the wound' processes need to be done daily for about a week, and then perhaps 2x a week, and then finally, weekly. BTW: chances are it will take a good 6 weeks to get this totally under control...

In the meantime, start giving SQ shots of the Fusogard bacterin on a routine basis, every 3 weeks for the next 4 or 5 months... I call this 'super vaccination' and it's the only way I've found to efficiently stimulate the goat's immune system to maintain antibodies to the fusobacterium bacteria as a means to permanently prevent re-infection by the hoof rot bacteria that already exist in the soil of the goat pen.

An addendum here: I recommend that you not discard the syringes and/or needles immediately after use. Simply rinse them out thoroughly, let them air dry, bag them up and store them to keep them clean, and then before using them the next time run alcohol thru them, catching the alcohol in a cotton ball held over the needle at the end to sanitize them. Then 'shoosh' out all the alcohol, and they're ready for use again! If you have any questions, please feel free to ask them... And I always appreciate feedback on how this goes when you're finished, OK?

Sue Reith
Carmelita Toggs
Bainbridge Island WA

(WhileI urge youto share this information with other individual goat owners, please do not reproduce the article for publication without my specific permission. Thank you. Sue Reith.)

No user avatar
Latest page update: made by goatguru , Jan 12 2007, 6:47 AM EST (about this update About This Update goatguru Edited by goatguru

195 words added
129 words deleted

view changes

- complete history)
More Info: links to this page
There are no threads for this page.  Be the first to start a new thread.